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As the lead chef at this Georgetown stalwart, Kurtz oversees a staff of 20. She’s responsible for everything that comes out of the kitchen, from a simple plate of Kurtz’s potato salad to start the meal to a deep-fried apple pie for dessert. The bulk of her time, however, is spent supervising two wood-burning smokers that churn out heaping portions of slow-cooked meats. Just how slowly cooked? “We throw our briskets in at about 6 p.m., and they’re ready at 6 a.m. the next day,” says Kurtz. The smokers require Kurtz to constantly add firewood. By keeping heat low and slow, this laborious method breaks down connective tissues in meats and produces juicy, tender cuts.

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