James Rigato is wearing a shirt and tie now, but he jokes that tonight will be the first time he's worn a suit in two years. It's because he'll be working the front of the house for his old pal Luciano DelSignore, "playing" sommelier while his buddy Marc Bogoff of Eastern Market's Stockyard heads up the kitchen this evening. Normally, he'd be dressed much more informally, wearing something that shows off some of his 16 tattoos. For now, showing off his four earrings will have to do.
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